Need a little help, finally got my cammed 5.7 started and running smoothly now of course there’s another problem, battery light turns on when i put the car into gear with the battery light coming on it throws a code p0344, traction control light and esp light. after research it seems to be common lights to come on when power is low, got my battery tested and put a new alternator in the car today. watching on the evic screen voltage barley bounces between 13.9-14.2 when cars put into gear but the light still comes on
CharlesTavenner
How old is your battery?
Your alternator is doing it's job, I just wonder if you drove the car for a while, everything might be fine?
Your alternator is doing it's job, I just wonder if you drove the car for a while, everything might be fine?
Might be a loose or dirty connection. At the battery or rarely at the front PDU/fusebox. Also check the wiring for the battery shunt in the trunk.
With car off for several hours, measure the battery voltage at the actual terminals on the battery. 12.6V is fully charged, 12.0V is half charged.
Start car. Measure voltage from the red wire in the engine bay to ground, between the positive and negative cables in the trunk, and between the positive and negative terminals on the battery. All should be the same (unless the alternator changed output while doing the tests, so maybe circle back around. Compare this to the voltage displayed on the dash. Should be a close match.
With the car running, the alternator should put out somewhere between 13.2V (for a fully charged battery) and 14.5V (even 14.7V) for a discharged battery. But see additional detail...
Additional detail: This voltage may drop to the low end of the range if the IBS (Intelligent Battery Monitor) detects the battery is getting too hot, even if not yet fully charged.
With car off for several hours, measure the battery voltage at the actual terminals on the battery. 12.6V is fully charged, 12.0V is half charged.
Start car. Measure voltage from the red wire in the engine bay to ground, between the positive and negative cables in the trunk, and between the positive and negative terminals on the battery. All should be the same (unless the alternator changed output while doing the tests, so maybe circle back around. Compare this to the voltage displayed on the dash. Should be a close match.
With the car running, the alternator should put out somewhere between 13.2V (for a fully charged battery) and 14.5V (even 14.7V) for a discharged battery. But see additional detail...
Additional detail: This voltage may drop to the low end of the range if the IBS (Intelligent Battery Monitor) detects the battery is getting too hot, even if not yet fully charged.
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