Upgraded brakes are probably a good idea. And I don’t mean just better pads and rotors. Better calipers too.

And brake fluid. Get in the habit of changing the fluid after every race weekend, once you’ve pushed it to the limits and beyond, it shouldnt be depended upon for daily driving duties during the week.

 

Yes sir. Getting another wilwood or baer. 6 piston front and 4 rear

 

The Upgrades you mention will help and also need Tires upgraded as well when on a Track. Strut Tower Braces will help also balance and add stability. Upgraded Sway Bars so both top and bottom geometry stay true. Fresh Fluids before you hit the track to ensure no debris or impurities cause an issue when performance is being pushed. Fresh Spark Plugs another thing to consider.

 

Yea. I'm getting a supercharger done soon. All fluids will be replaced by then and spark plugs. Tires are pilot sport 4s so imo they're good. But I will get sport cup 2s when these wear out. Or if I need better

Probably not what you want to hear, but I'll give my .02 anyway. I just recently tracked my 2021 Scat Pack A8 with the dynamics package (adaptive suspension, 275s). And when I say track, I mean I brought it to the drag strip once in Maryland, made a couple of passes, and did about a total of 20 laps around Dominion Raceway on two different days during a Track Attack, which is like a spirited ride around the track not trying to set records. My best advice to you is to bring you car to the track first without doing any modifications. I know the impulse is there to get it all decked out but trust me on this. Bring as is to the track. Learn your driving style. You'll probably feel like you need different tires or stiffer suspension. Whatever it is it's best to try out what you have and then make mods so you can see a different the next time you go back.

For drag I put the pack tires to around 25 psi and fronts up to 40. Suspension in street. You can try launch control if you have it, but will likely spin the tires. Try a few passes and see how you do. Transmission and so forth I tried sport and track, I actually think street may be best so you don't blow out the tires.

For the track (road course) 32 psi squared. Have a good helmet in case they are required, depends on what you're doing. If you have it, put it in track mode for steering, suspension, and trans. I set traction to street. You'll want it to help you out in the beginning. Work on proper sitting posture, 9 and 3 on the wheel and smooth inputs.

Just give whatever it is a try and then add stuff later. Once you tracked it, things will just click and it will give you more satisfaction the next time you bring it modded.

Thanks for the detailed response man. And yea that's a good idea. I think I'll take in a few weeks. In your opinion. Would it be better to drive with traction control on, partially off or completely off? Right now with my tire set up if they're warm they wont spin with my current power levels. Do you think control arms would he worth to dial in camber or and angle?

I would look into getting Front & Rear strut braces plenty of options out there. I went with the Mopar setup. You will see a noticeable difference in body roll. After you run those for a while I would look into an adjustable coil over setup and then move to sway bars. This would be a good start and from here you can start diving into the deep end of the track world. (I see you have a sportier spring and shock setup, but if you are seriously looking to track the car you will need to sell those and make the switch being able to adjust you suspension and fine tune you setup on track day is crucial) --- If you are tracking the car and daily driving I would then seriously look into your brakes and how to cool them. Start with the Strut bars and go push the car around the corners hard you'll start to realize what you need.

Yea. I was going to get the scott drake tower. ( I go to a lot of meets and the suoercharger coming ittl look good in the bay. What would cool them right now and I have powerstop drill and slotted rotors. The only thing I can think of is the srt lip. I heard it has brake ducts for cooling

 

Probably not what you want to hear, but I'll give my .02 anyway. I just recently tracked my 2021 Scat Pack A8 with the dynamics package (adaptive suspension, 275s). And when I say track, I mean I brought it to the drag strip once in Maryland, made a couple of passes, and did about a total of 20 laps around Dominion Raceway on two different days during a Track Attack, which is like a spirited ride around the track not trying to set records. My best advice to you is to bring you car to the track first without doing any modifications. I know the impulse is there to get it all decked out but trust me on this. Bring as is to the track. Learn your driving style. You'll probably feel like you need different tires or stiffer suspension. Whatever it is it's best to try out what you have and then make mods so you can see a different the next time you go back.

For drag I put the pack tires to around 25 psi and fronts up to 40. Suspension in street. You can try launch control if you have it, but will likely spin the tires. Try a few passes and see how you do. Transmission and so forth I tried sport and track, I actually think street may be best so you don't blow out the tires.

For the track (road course) 32 psi squared. Have a good helmet in case they are required, depends on what you're doing. If you have it, put it in track mode for steering, suspension, and trans. I set traction to street. You'll want it to help you out in the beginning. Work on proper sitting posture, 9 and 3 on the wheel and smooth inputs.

Just give whatever it is a try and then add stuff later. Once you tracked it, things will just click and it will give you more satisfaction the next time you bring it modded.

 

I would look into getting Front & Rear strut braces plenty of options out there. I went with the Mopar setup. You will see a noticeable difference in body roll. After you run those for a while I would look into an adjustable coil over setup and then move to sway bars. This would be a good start and from here you can start diving into the deep end of the track world. (I see you have a sportier spring and shock setup, but if you are seriously looking to track the car you will need to sell those and make the switch being able to adjust you suspension and fine tune you setup on track day is crucial) --- If you are tracking the car and daily driving I would then seriously look into your brakes and how to cool them. Start with the Strut bars and go push the car around the corners hard you'll start to realize what you need.

 

Yea. I was going to get the scott drake tower. ( I go to a lot of meets and the suoercharger coming ittl look good in the bay. What would cool them right now and I have powerstop drill and slotted rotors. The only thing I can think of is the srt lip. I heard it has brake ducts for cooling

Yes, the SRT chin spoiler and belly pan and needed if you have an RT like me. Those will give you the added benefits of the duck work to cool the brakes you can also split the cooling and run it up into the airbox as well which is an added bonus. -- Powerstop drill an slotted rotors are nice, but if you are going to be adding a supercharger to your car you will def. want to increase the stopping power no point in going fast if you can't control the power plant -- Baer, Willow Wood, Brembo, even Stop tech big brake kit are great options this change your wheel options if you are not already aware. Gets really expensive really quickly.


I would also be leery of your rotors when you supercharge the car drilled and slotted rotors help with cooling, but also can crack easier under heavy use, rare, but can occur. Food for thought.

 

Yes, the SRT chin spoiler and belly pan and needed if you have an RT like me. Those will give you the added benefits of the duck work to cool the brakes you can also split the cooling and run it up into the airbox as well which is an added bonus. -- Powerstop drill an slotted rotors are nice, but if you are going to be adding a supercharger to your car you will def. want to increase the stopping power no point in going fast if you can't control the power plant -- Baer, Willow Wood, Brembo, even Stop tech big brake kit are great options this change your wheel options if you are not already aware. Gets really expensive really quickly.


I would also be leery of your rotors when you supercharge the car drilled and slotted rotors help with cooling, but also can crack easier under heavy use, rare, but can occur. Food for thought.

Yea I didn't know that until after. I'm torn between baer and wilwood. I've heard bear has better performance but I really like the look of wilwood. I'm sure they're both good tho. I do have an 11 rt classic. Getting a little off topic but what about engine cooling? any opinions on that? I have the functional vents. Would there be anything else without adding a meth/water kit

 

Exciting times!

The best mods per our personal experience have been the following:

Front Strut brace
Rear Strut Brace - 4 point standard if you are not worried about space and want the strongest option.
Subframe Connectors - You car will feel like it's riding on rails, great mod for elimanting body roll.

Depending on how serious you get you can change the front and rear control arms, sway bars, enlinks, etc too. Feel free to give us a call or send us a PM and we are happy to help.

- Alexis

 

Exciting times!

The best mods per our personal experience have been the following:

Front Strut brace
Rear Strut Brace - 4 point standard if you are not worried about space and want the strongest option.
Subframe Connectors - You car will feel like it's riding on rails, great mod for elimanting body roll.

Depending on how serious you get you can change the front and rear control arms, sway bars, enlinks, etc too. Feel free to give us a call or send us a PM and we are happy to help.

- Alexis

Thank you I'm probably gonna do the entire supsension plus extra. I'll have to look. Into those subframe connectors. My gf just bought a 16 camaro ss and that thing feels so planted. Even though her tires are @$$

 

Be sure to check out the Road Course/Autocross subforum right below this one! Lots of info to find in there. Does your 2011 Challenger R/T Classic have a Tremec or NAG1? And what's your local road course?

Michelin PS4S is a great all-weather HPDE tire so the only other upgrade you should do at a minimum is a brake flush with quality DOT4 fluid (boiling points around 600F dry & 400F wet from Wilwood, Motul, Castrol, et cetera). Eventually a set of rotors and hi-temp race pads (Carbotech, Hawk DTC, Raybestos ST...) specifically for trackdays would be the next step.

Fully hydraulic steering stopped in 2010 so at least you won't have to worry about blowing your steering pump with your electro-hydraulic unit! Do you have EVIC (steering wheel buttons)? As it will allow you to monitor the oil & trans temps if you don't have another device to do so. There's the great Frankencooler thread over on LXForums using aux coolers (similar to ones used in Hellcats but predating them by almost a decade!).

Tow hooks will save your car from damage if you go 4 wheels off as the track crew will hook to whatever/wherever they can in order to pull you out ASAP. ZL1 Add-ons is a popular bolt-on option but Rennline makes extremely nice stainless hooks if you're not afraid of a little fabwork.

When you get to the suspension it's adjustable control arms for camber, sway bars and strut braces to stiffen things up and dialed in (I went with AAD, Hotchkis & Petty). Then if the track junkie bug bites you hard, save up for fully adjustable true coilovers with swappable springs.

 

I have an auto. And the evic.... Well I have it but it only works when it wants to. Very frustrating because I love all the info. I tried doing a cluster reset and it seemed to help for a day or two. As for the brakes, I got powerstop rotors and pads and I can tell already I'll need the larger calipers. They are great rotors. But for racing in such a huge car I don't think they'll do once I get the charger on.