Hit the back of the wheel as you rotate it. Aluminum and steel don't like each other and when rust builds it builds good. But you have to get a good Beatin' Stick - Sledge hammer.

 

Typical, aluminum stuck to the steel rotor, happened on my 300C. I jacked the car up and took a short 2 x 4 and gently pried from the back of the wheel it came off fairly easy. Smeared a little grease on the mounting face. I haven't had any further problems when rotating after doing this.

 

Thats a good idea, I think I have something that can substitute.

 

Were you just smacking the tire? I can't get a hammer in there too well to smack the rim itself.

 

It should come off, make SURE all 5 nuts are removed, sometime aluminium stick to metal, you might have to ''hit'' it from the inside use a 2x4, wrap it in a towel and place it on inside edge of the rim, use a malet and hit the 2x4, move the wood in different location around the rim until it breaks free from the hub) . Use anti seeze grease around the hub when you put it back on.

Hope it help's

Steve

 

Usually just hit the tire and it should break loose. Just stuck on the bearing hub.

 

The wheels do stick to the hub surface. Give the the edge of the rim (since your tire is flat) a good whack with an open palm in a couple of places and it should pop free.

Just rotated my tires and had that experience with a couple of the wheels. Once you've whacked it a couple of places, pull from the backside and you'll get it free.

Also, when tightening the lug nuts, get them snug before lowering the car to the ground - this helps to center the studs to the wheel.

Skip every other lug going around the pattern and you'll get all the lugs tightened in sequence...

Once on the ground, tighten in two full passes and you'll torque the wheel evenly and won't have any issues with anything loosening up. Works like a charm.

 

if its rusted on there seldom can you hit it free with your hand. the suggestion to use a towel on a 2x4 is a good one. Usually one good smack on the 2x4 on the lower half with a sledge hammer breaks the rim loose and wood (or towel coated 2x4) wont hurt the rim at all

 

100 FT LBS. Torque on the wheel lug nuts is spec.

 

It's actually 85 ft lbs

 

OK finally got it off. I had to take the delorean over to Home Depot and get get a good rubber mallet. It took about 5 minutes to get it off even with several good hits on the backside. Since I don't have a torque wrench I did my usual nut tightening. 3 impacts when jacked up, staggered. 3 impacts when down, same. Its never failed me on any car and I never have any nut/loose wheel issues. I'm glad I got this electric impact wrench last year for just these situations.

 

I usually try kicking it. If more force is needed, take a swing at it with the spare tire.

Another technique is to put the lug nuts back on loose, take it off the jack and then drive it a few feet.

Bill

 

Since you have a Delorean, this should interest you:

Jalopnik - Time Machine Found In Junkyard By Hobo Seeking Great Scotch - DeLorean DMC-12

Bill

 

They have Imperial feet in Canada and metric pounds.:bigthumb:

Bill

 

Those wheel studs are bigger than the norm - 14mm if I recollect. I'm sure they can handle the torque. That's a bit over 1/2" in USA size.

Bill

 

I wasn't worried about the studs, I was worried about those poor tapered nut seats in the relatively soft cast aluminum (as apposed to forged aluminum) rims...

The forces generated inside the join of a tapered fastener/seat are quite substantial. Some people mistakenly assume that the lug nuts are tapered so they can center the wheel. Not true. They're tapered so that they will "self lock" when tightened, The hub center is responsible for centering the wheel and is, in this case, probably also responsible for the wheel sticking. The hub center o.d. is a very snug fit inside the wheel center i.d. (hence the centering action) when the two parts are brand new and clean. Then you add in a little rust on the hub center o.d. and a little oxidation on the wheel center i.d. where there isn't really room for either rust or oxidation and you have a seriously tight fit. This is more often the case than having the flat mounting surfaces stick together. But, we can all agree that a stuck wheel sucks.

 

I just loosen the lug nuts about a turn then put the car in gear and run it forward and reverse for a few feet hitting the brakes.Works every time..............JB.

 

1analguy said:
<<The hub center o.d. is a very snug fit inside the wheel center i.d. (hence the centering action) when the two parts are brand new and clean. Then you add in a little rust on the hub center o.d. and a little oxidation on the wheel center i.d. where there isn't really room for either rust or oxidation and you have a seriously tight fit.>>

I usually put some anti-seize or at least some lithium grease on that hub center while I have the wheel (and rotor) off for other purposes. Seems to help. Those rotors can get stuck on even tighter than the wheels.

Bill

 

Actually I checked my wheel locks and it is 115 ft lbs on the SRT8 wheel. Attached is the copy of it.

 

Thanks Highberg,

It's still weird because I was present when one of the dealers was looking it up-And the spec did read 110 LBS for an SRT. I'm going to be using 115 LBS from now on thanks to your info, but I wonder why the dealer's data was incorrect...Just strange...

 

Actually the key for not warping is EQUAL torque on all 5 (or 4 if 5th is lock).

Anywhere between 85-100 should be fine for the tapered lugnuts. It's probably only 1/32nd of a turn difference between the two.

 

place some anti seize grease between the rim and the rotor when you go to put the rim back on the car. Also why hit rim or tire with a hammer/wood/etc , just loosen the lugs and crank the wheel to max one side to another and it should break free.

 

place some anti seize grease between the rim and the rotor when you go to put the rim back on the car. Also why hit rim or tire with a hammer/wood/etc , just loosen the lugs and crank the wheel to max one side to another and it should break free.

And if it's on the rear?

 

Don't risk your safety by hitting the backside of the tire unless you're using jackstands. You don't need anything fancy, just your foot.

Wheels stick all of the time, simply turn around and kick the tire with your heel, avoiding the wheel of course. It'll rotate a bit as you do it, and a few firm taps will dislodge it. Leave a couple of lug nuts on loosely so it doesn't come off unexpectedly.