That’s a tall order if you want to get into paint correction. You see scratches because you got an enhancement so you’re not going to have perfect paint. I recommend some YouTube channels but in my opinion, leave the paint correction to the professionals as there is a lot of info and variables but if you’re serious you can watch these guys below or better yet, take an actual paint correction class.

Apex Detail
Miranda Detailing


These two are good starting points. I recommend Griots G9, it’s a solid machine for beginners. Pads, orange or a medium cutting pad and polishing pads, without a pad washer or compressed air I would grab at least 6 pads each. I prefer Shine Supply correction fluids, Sole should be more than enough for your needs. Panel wipe, 70% alcohol.

An AIO might be better for your needs though, something like Carpro Essence. Light cutting and some filling capabilities.

 

That’s a tall order if you want to get into paint correction. I recommend some YouTube channels but in my opinion, leave the paint correction to the professionals as there is a lot of info and variables but if you’re serious you can watch these guys below or better yet, take an actual paint correction class.

Apex Detail
Miranda Detailing


These two are good starting points. I recommend Griots G9, it’s a solid machine for beginners. Pads, orange or a medium cutting pad and polishing pads, without a pad washer or compressed air I would grab at least 6 pads each. I prefer Shine Supply correction fluids, Sole should be more than enough for your needs. Panel wipe, 70% alcohol.

Thanks, I will look into it. At the least I hope to learn how to do more than a basic wash and how to wax

 

I have owned my 2009 Hemi-orange SRT since Dec. 2008 and it still looks showroom new. I use the two-bucket showcar washing method and dry it with The Absorber.

I am a big believer in Meguiars' products. Every year, I apply Meguiars Ultimate Polish. When I wax, every three months, I use Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax and follow it up with Meguiars Ultimate Detail Spray. (Note- I use soft microfiber pads and cloths).

Here are two recent photos:

 

I have owned my 2009 Hemi-orange SRT since Dec. 2008 and it still looks showroom new. I use the two-bucket showcar washing method and dry it with The Absorber.

I am a big believer in Meguiars' products. Every year, I apply Meguiars Ultimate Polish. When I wax, every three months, I use Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax and follow it up with Meguiars Ultimate Detail Spray. (Note- I use soft microfiber pads and cloths).

Here are two recent photos:

View attachment 1102255

View attachment 1102256

Looks great! But, question, the stripes are shiny, were they matte to start with? They look somewhere in the middle.

 

I am currently using the 2 bucket method with meguiars wash and wax (the yellow one with the shiny black label). I try to wash it every weekend but sometimes I get busy and dont have time

 

I am currently using the 2 bucket method with meguiars wash and wash (the yellow one with the shiny black label). I try to wash it every weekend but sometimes I get busy and dont have time

You mean McGuire's car shampoo? That's all I use on my cars. Love it!

Autogeek New Products

www.autogeek.net

 

i hand wash car in the garage no car wash or dealership wash 2 bucket but towel dry each section after the rinse barely use any soap some washes i just rinse ( i call it a bath and towel dry) always covered in garage.car is never left outside for more than 2 hrs..i wash my wife's favorite towels before she gets home..also i use rinse water hot from kitchen sink..i do 1 setion at a time front fender then dry door then dry back 1/4 then dry same with the hood trunk other side.

 

@HowLong? Now's the time to get a good deal on a nice polisher. I've been getting more involved myself and really digging products by Griot's Garage. I'm hoping to pickup their G9 Polishers on a holiday sale. My advice wold be to start simple.. I plan on using an All-In-One for the entire car, but if I have some stubborn scratches, I'd hit it with additional correction. I don't plan on correcting the entire car since it's a driver.

 

I think that is a wise move. Start with a basic cover all, from there shoot the spots that need more attention until its satisfactory.

 

Not as bad as it was before, but still visible (especially in the correct lighting). I know its black had difficult, but I think it can be done with some TLC

 

Thanks, I will look into it. At the least I hope to learn how to do more than a basic wash and how to wax

You’re asking for very different things. Washing and waxing are different from paint correction. You noted you have scratches, only way to remove said scratches is paint correction which why I think you’re better off leaving that to the professionals.

That said, to avoid scratches and best care for the car use proper washing techniques ideally bi-weekly but let’s be honest, who really has that kind of time? I do mine and my clients monthly. Most the time I don’t get to my car until month two or three, however mine is ceramic coated and I spot clean which most people don’t do. Bird droppings and bugs I remove immediately and if my car gets hit with sprinklers or something I wash it ASAP. Water spots will kill any protection and etch into the paint if not removed which can be a costly fix.

The basics of detailing will be most beneficial to you. Two bucket method works great, I prefer the multi mitt method where I use like 6 mitts on my car so I’m never introducing dirt to my bucket. I use a separate bucket and mitt for wheels/tire area.

Shampoo, I prefer something that has great lubricity and rinses clean.

My personal faves:
• Meguiar’s Gold Class
• Turtle Wax Slick n Slide
• Adams Shampoo
• 3D Pink

Mitts I prefer ones that don’t have pockets. For drying CarPro makes a solid towel as does Autofiber.

I highly recommend you get a rinseless wash, whether it’s ONR, Absolute, DIY Detail whatever, I use rinseless more than anything. Great as a drying aid, maintenance for interior and exterior, glass cleaner, spot cleaner for bird poop and bugs etc. Also get a rinseless sponge if you plan to use it for maintenance washing. Microfiber works ok, but you need to use a specific technique called the roll technique, otherwise you’ll scratch the paint all to hell. Sponge however, easy peasy, glide it on, then dry. Simple.

For protection I prefer sealants over wax. Collinite is solid but does take a minute to anpply. It says it’s a wax but has a synthetic base with some natural wax infused which is why it lasts so long. If you use just straight up carnauba wax, it’ll be gone within a month.

If you go the Collinite route it’s best to apply over the whole car, let it sit for 30 minutes then wipe off. Just be sure to avoid plastic trim or matte finishes, which is why I prefer sealants as they typically work fine one these surfaces or at least no adverse reaction.

Sealants I like:
• IGL Premier (6 month but easily give you a year of protection)
• Shine Supply Clutch (works great on plastic trim too)
• System X Renew (longevity isn’t quite 9 months as they claim but slick as hell)
• Meguiar’s M27 (works similar to Collinite but won’t harm trim)

Toppers (used after a wash to give a boost of gloss and slickness)
• Aqua Tek Synth
• P&S Bead Maker
• 3D Bead It Up

 

You’re asking for very different things. Washing and waxing are different from paint correction. You noted you have scratches, only way to remove said scratches is paint correction which why I think you’re better off leaving that to the professionals.

That said, to avoid scratches and best care for the car use proper washing techniques ideally bi-weekly but let’s be honest, who really has that kind of time? I do mine and my clients monthly. Most the time I don’t get to my car until month two or three, however mine is ceramic coated and I spot clean which most people don’t do. Bird droppings and bugs I remove immediately and if my car gets hit with sprinklers or something I wash it ASAP. Water spots will kill any protection and etch into the paint if not removed which can be a costly fix.

The basics of detailing will be most beneficial to you. Two bucket method works great, I prefer the multi mitt method where I use like 6 mitts on my car so I’m never introducing dirt to my bucket. I use a separate bucket and mitt for wheels/tire area.

Shampoo, I prefer something that has great lubricity and rinses clean.

My personal faves:
• Meguiar’s Gold Class
• Turtle Wax Slick n Slide
• Adams Shampoo
• 3D Pink

Mitts I prefer ones that don’t have pockets. For drying CarPro makes a solid towel as does Autofiber.

I highly recommend you get a rinseless wash, whether it’s ONR, Absolute, DIY Detail whatever, I use rinseless more than anything. Great as a drying aid, maintenance for interior and exterior, glass cleaner, spot cleaner for bird poop and bugs etc. Also get a rinseless sponge if you plan to use it for maintenance washing. Microfiber works ok, but you need to use a specific technique called the roll technique, otherwise you’ll scratch the paint all to hell. Sponge however, easy peasy, glide it on, then dry. Simple.

For protection I prefer sealants over wax. Collinite is solid but does take a minute to anpply. It says it’s a wax but has a synthetic base with some natural wax infused which is why it lasts so long. If you use just straight up carnauba wax, it’ll be gone within a month.

If you go the Collinite route it’s best to apply over the whole car, let it sit for 30 minutes then wipe off. Just be sure to avoid plastic trim or matte finishes, which is why I prefer sealants as they typically work fine one these surfaces or at least no adverse reaction.

Sealants I like:
• IGL Premier (6 month but easily give you a year of protection)
• Shine Supply Clutch (works great on plastic trim too)
• System X Renew (longevity isn’t quite 9 months as they claim but slick as hell)
• Meguiar’s M27 (works similar to Collinite but won’t harm trim)

Toppers (used after a wash to give a boost of gloss and slickness)
• Aqua Tek Synth
• P&S Bead Maker
• 3D Bead It Up

Lots of good info here! Thank you

 

Based on Post 13, I’d pay a Pro for correction then Ceramic then stay away from car washes no matter how filthy it gets.
Good luck.

 

Follow Junkman2000 on youtube and you will learn all you need to know

 

Watch youtuber AUTO FETISH DETAIL. Than buy his new polish, CSI Cream-X polish. 8 oz goes a long way. I bought 32 oz because I have 2 cars to do and that is probably twice what I need.

I use an old Craftsman random orbital polisher, which no one recommends anymore. I get OUTSTANDING RESULTS.

Follow it up with your ceramic topping of choice. I choose Optimum Care Products because it is cheap, shines and lasts for not a lot of cash. Follow this up with their ceramic detail spray once a week or so. To redo every 6 months is no big deal.

And CERAKOTE your PLASTIC(which does not include the REAR SPOILER as I am told this is painted). Don't forget your WHEEL WELLS.

 

Watch these early Junkman 2000 videos (made before he sold out to product endorsement). This is how I learned how to do paint correction. After watching these videos, I bought a Harbor Freight dual action polisher for about $70. Later, I bought a Porter Cable 7424xp DA; well worth the investment of $140. The HF one is fine for beginners, but weights a lot.

Don't listen to those who counsel "don't risk it". A dual action polisher makes "burning your paint" almost impossible if you follow the processes outlined by Junkman and others. You run a greater risk of denting your car by dropping the DA than you do "burning" the paint.

Study also the "Two Bucket Method". Even cars with ceramic coatings will get mars and swirls if not washed properly.

If you're going the route of wax as opposed to ceramic coating, I strongly suggest Collinite #845 or #476. You won't find a better wax/sealant for the money. Your time and/or money is wasted on paint correction if you don't use a quality wax/sealant...and Collinite is about as good as it gets.

Going the wax route makes the eventual future paint corrections easier, as you don't have to work as hard to remove the ceramic as opposed to a sealant. This applies also to if you get into a fender bender; it's easier for the body shop to prep for repaint.

I found doing paint correction actually rather therapeutic.

 

Re 2 bucket. I use this 30 year old Boars Hair body brush. Never below belt line. After gentle sweep of half the hood, it is rinsed with clean water from the hose then immersed in a bucket of car wash. Same juice as in the foam gun. Final rinse is with open hose to increase sheeting. Blow dry with Ryobi. Blot any spots with micro fiber with detail mist on it. Windows first.