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Restoring to factory before writing a new tune

8K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  Gator Brah  
#1 ·
I've been having some issues with my Intune, traction control was randomly being turned off while driving so I restored my factory tune then installed the 93 CAI tune back.
I noticed a very significant loss of power after re-installing the tune, my car used to squeak the tires shifting into 2nd and doesn't anymore.

So I decided to give my Intune a long overdue update, after getting everything updated I again wrote the 93 CAI tune, but this time I didn't reset to factory first. I haven't taken my car out since, but I will report the findings.

My question is, do you have to go back to the factory tune each time before installing a new tune?

Say I had a 93 CAI tune installed and wanted to switch to the 91 CAI tune.
Would I have to reset to factory first or could I just write the 91 tune over the 93 tune?

I've searched for an answer but it's hard to word this question, I just wan to make sure I'm doing it right.
Thanks.
 
#3 ·
Yes I set them firmer.
 
#4 ·
i have a intune and i have changed things on the tune but it always asks me to modifiy the current tune.. does yours when you go from one to the other?

i two have experienced the power loss when i reset it to factory then back to a tune.. i don't get that at all.

i havn't updated mine for a while.. i don't think the UPDATES do anything regarding tunes, i think it has to do with the ability for use on other vehicals so i leave mine alone.

let me know what you find out after your drive
chris
 
#6 ·
Alright the tune seems to have "broken itself in" per se, it feels like all the power is back, it's squeaking 2nd again and downshifting hard. I'm not sure if that is normal or not but it took about a day of driving for it to really come alive again.
 
#5 ·
Alright after driving around a bit, it seems better, but the car is still not back to the power it had with the original tune. Will not squeak the tires in 2nd.. I think one of the problems is that I pulled the #2 fuse for 30 seconds and it's not downshifting as far as it was. If I do it with autostick the pull is still there, but if I go WOT in auto it feels like it stays int he same gear almost.
Idk maybe someone from diablosport can shed some light.
 
#7 ·
sounds good. glad it is working correct again.

i wish someone could answer if updateing the intune to the newest version has any different PERFORMANCE TUNES not just more vehical capabilites.

i don't really want to mess with updating this thing and then have it crash or something like that if it is for nothing more than more car options and not the TUNES themselves.

does anyone know?
chris
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the reply, regarding the "break in time" of the tune, what's the reason that it feels less powerful after re-installing a tune?
 
#11 · (Edited)
Dumb question but you did have good gas in it when you loaded the 93 tune? In case it was pulling timing.
I have noticed it once on mine when swapping between tuned and stock ECU.
I recalibrated the throttle body and it seemed to get back the response and power on the next start.
I do this when I swap back and forth between the ECUs at the track.
Ign on (engine not running)
slowly depress the throttle and hold wide open for 5 seconds then slowly release the throttle.
The TB idiot light may flash.
start it and you should be good to go.
If the throttle body cal is off, it may take several temp cycles to recal and that may be what is going on when you load the tune.
 
#12 ·
Dumb question but you did have good gas in it when you loaded the 93 tune? In case it was pulling timing.
I have noticed it once on mine when swapping between tuned and stock ECU.
I recalibrated the throttle body and it seemed to get back the response and power on the next start.
I do this when I swap back and forth between the ECUs at the track.
Ign on (engine not running)
slowly depress the throttle and hold wide open for 5 seconds then slowly release the throttle.
The TB idiot light may flash.
start it and you should be good to go.
I've only ever put in 93, even when running the stock tune, how do you re-calibrate the TB?
 
#13 ·
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.htm#ChallTip43

Tip:43
ETC Throttle Calibration/Characterization:


Late LX/LC Model (5.7LTR HEMI) Charger/Challenger Throttle calibration procedure. It basically does a zero/span characterization for PCM on fly-by-wire throttle system.
This procedure if followed correctly will hold until battery power is cycled again.


Note that the throttle body assembly itself performs a self-diagnostic (full open/close) prior to every key-start.

PCM Zero/Span
Throttle Calibration

Throttle Calibration can substantially improve throttle responsiveness over "factory standard."
Many people notice what appears to be sluggish
throttle response or a pedal "dead area" at initial accelerator depression.

Throttle calibration can take care of these.

Procedure steps:

1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start).
2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on.
3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.

(HOLD to the floor for about a three second count.)
(On some PCM versions, Check Engine light (CEL) may start flashing here)
4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up.
5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF".
6) Start the engine.

Many drivers notice an immediate change in
throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to
repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's (PCM) adaptive programming.

NOTE:
You will likely need to repeat this procedure any time the battery is disconnected.
 
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#14 ·
Thanks! I'll go do that now.
 
#15 ·
WOW! What a difference, thanks so much for that it's like night and day, I can barely keep traction now. A whole new beast! :bigthumb:
 
#16 ·
Glad it helped. I get in the habit of doing it everytime I swap ECUs or pull fuse # 2 to reset driver adaptives.
The ECU will tone down as it learns your driving habits (especially if you granny drive a lot) but this is a quick way to restore factory settings (pulling fuse # 2 and re-cal the throttle body). the ECU will also learn your bolt ons (exhaust, CAI, TBs etc) and will eventually zero out any gains as the computer continues to bring all the stock parameters back in. Pulling fuse # 2 and recalibration of the TB will bring all the benefits back for a short while. Good to do at the track before you run or those specail Friday Night cruises....
A CMR Tune is the only way I know of to stop the ECU from re-learing all your mods as you are putting in different than stock parameters.