the switch for the smart glass function is integrated into the latch mechanism, so that might be part of the issue.

 

Welcome to Challengertalk Hoosier22. This was the procedure?

08 - Electrical/8N - Power Systems/Power Windows/Standard Procedure

STANDARD PROCEDURE - CLEAR/RELEARN

NOTE: The battery must be fully charged or the vehicle running for proper calibration of the front door module.
NOTE: The following procedure must be performed anytime the power window system has been serviced in either front door or, there is a possible concern with a door module calibration.Smart-glass / Express-down possible concerns.

Glass will not drop correctly when door is opened.
Glass will not raise after door is closed.
Glass will not lower all the way down flush to the beltline.
Glass will not raise fully; wind noise / water leak.

To clear/denormalize the door module memory, perform the following procedure:

CLEAR/DENORMALIZE
1. Check and repair any door module Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)(s) before proceeding.
2. Using a scan tool, under the Miscellaneous functions menu select (Denormalize Window/Reset ECU), and follow the directions to clear/denormalize the door module memory. To relearn/normalize the door module memory, perform the following procedure:

RELEARN/NORMALIZE


NOTE: The battery must be fully charged or the vehicle running before proceeding.
1. If needed, place the vehicle battery on charge or have the engine running.
NOTE: Both doors must be completely closed before proceeding.
2. Sit in the driver seat and close the door.
3. To relearn/normalize the door module, start by raising the door glass to the full-up position by pulling up on the window switch and holding the switch until the door glass is fully closed. Continue to hold the window switch up for two seconds after the door glass is full closed.
4. Lower the door glass to the full-down position by pushing down (depress) the window switch to its second detent and hold the switch until the door glass is fully open. Continue to hold the window switch down for two seconds after the door glass is fully open.
5. Check the operation of the smart-glass. Verify that the door glass drops approximately 1/4 inch when the door opens, and raises when door closes. If window does not drop or raise, repeat procedure starting at step #3
6. Check the operation of the express-down feature.
7. If the smart-glass does not work, repeat the procedure starting at step #3, waiting for three seconds after the window stops.
8. Recheck and repair any door module DTC's as needed

A Guy

 

Except for the scan tool, yes, that was what I did A Guy.

 

Some say do a down 10 times, press ,press, press, then an up 10 times. Not sure if there is any calibration besides the one you tried. It's not going up and down on it's own, killing your battery? Goes all the way up, and down with switch?

A Guy

 

Some say do a down 10 times, press ,press, press, then an up 10 times. Not sure if there is any calibration besides the one you tried. It's not going up and down on it's own, killing your battery?

No, it's not doing that.

Goes all the way up, and down with switch?

Actually it stops 1/2" from all the way down. Goes all the way up fine.

 

Also been having issues with my 2012 driver window, various relearns and 10 clicks up down etc make it work for few days then stops working again. Ive actually ruined my driver door tint from the window not coming down sometimes causing the top to peel of the tint

 

I cannot even get mine to relearn for any time period. I'm wondering if the control / switch module needs to be replaced at this point or if code clearing would have any benefit.

Hi eugene3524 and oosier22,

We're sorry to hear you experiencing these concern and recognize the importance of having a reliable ride. We understand you are looking to other forum members for more information on these concerns. However, if you decide to have these looked into further by a dealer, we would be more than happy to offer our additional layer of assistance. Please feel free to send us a private message with your VIN if this is something that interest you.

Julie
Dodge Social Care Specialist

 

I cannot even get mine to relearn for any time period. I'm wondering if the control / switch module needs to be replaced at this point or if code clearing would have any benefit.

 

Probably clear codes (or see what codes are present) - it could be the control module.

the window system uses hall-effect sensors to determine the window travel (after learn procedure is set) and counts the revolutions to determine when glass is at end of travel.
-there's a also an over-current sensing to cut power temporarily if glass is binding / end of travel.

If you run glass to end of travel (door closed) and hold switch [two seconds], you can hear a soft relay click when the over-current draw relay activates.

Its a process of elimination to determine which item is failing:
>window control module
>window control switch assembly
>door latch / smart glass switch (they're integral - replaced as assembly)
>power window motor
>window regulator (if its binding)

 

I have re-calibrated the window on my 2012 SXT several times by holding the button down for 10 seconds then up for 10 seconds. Then my "Smart" window went dumb and kept going uo and down all night killing the battery. I replaced the door latch which fixed the problem but the dealer had to adjust the outside handle since it had to be pulled up with two hands to open the door. I attempted to adjust it by opening up the door panel but couldn't figure it out. Now my window doesn't work at all, I think the wiring got pulled too hard opening the door up. The other possibility might be the switches. Has anyone else had the switches replaced? Don't want to get switches if they are rarely at fault.
Thanks

 

In each door, you have the Window Control Module, Window switch, Smart Glass (in latch mech.) and the Keyless Entry door handle

The body control module needs to be scanned for codes / errors to narrow down which component that isn't working right

 

Thanks Hal, will try that approach first.

 

All chally owners this window thing has been recalled only for the 2011 canada challys already. But chrysler refuses to see that it is an issue from 2010 to 2015, 16. If we dont get together and complain to dodge they are not going to replace what they've intentionally done. They continued to use the same parts im sure of it, so said one chally owner who had a 2014 chally. I would lile to start a petition gathering emails of the issue to present to dodge. This issue not only causes a dead battery but causes other issue,like your battery weakening causing your alternator to over heat causes the sensors in your car to malfunction because if your battery isnt working properly your sensors can be off causing premature codes and then eventually part like your fuel pump to over wirk your tranny down shifting prematurely because your speed sensors arent working the way they should. Ive delt in the almost 2years since ive purchased my challenger 2013 r/t in december of 2018 at 27,+++ miles withing the first 30days I told the napleton dodge of wpbch, fl that the abs and antiskid lights were coming on, the window was going up and down while the vehicle was off my battery had died my rotors were squealing, but thats a whole other issue dodge has with challys and chargers r/t's. Either way they said oh it was just a sensor reset my car and said it was fixed the rotors they changed the back breaks and they still squeaked, again whole other issue. But the speed sensors went on and off for a while with them saying it was normal for the cars age that they were fine and they were not. The tranny because of the issuse with the sensors and the constant issue with the window draining the battery and causing the tranny to down shift prematurely when I thought it was normal being told its a powerful engine its gonna have a harder down shift the regular engines needed to be replaced at 42,000 miles the fuel pump was being over worked cause the sensors were off and it blew 2 fuel pumps 1 while on the road and the other when my mechanic who I trust with my life and have know for a while before he was my mechanic put the new one in and because of a short caused by the battery constantly dying had to be replaced and he chased down the short which was caused by the speed sensors because the battery shorted them out from the window constantly going up and down all the time till I finally found a way to keep them from doing so by taking the fuse out and putting it in the dummy slot where the sunroof fuse would of gone and have to do that everytime I get in and out of my car if im leaving it parked. Now im not saying fight for it all. Although dodge should be responsible for the domino effect but them taking responsibility for the window issue no matter whos having it and what year this they should. We need to be tired of companies and corporations making things that break just a moment after we've purchased them. They can make their products to last a good 10years it absolutely possible... Anyways thats all anyone wanting to hold chrysler dodge jeep responsible for their actions. Please email me your issue with the window and what other things you think the window issue might of caused at

Tinas.Challenger.13@gmail.Com

Thank you

Tina Monroig

 

 

Tina, your post can remain, but I have converted it to normal text. Please do not post again in all caps or any new posts will be removed. Also do not cross post the same post in several threads/forums

A Guy

 

Are you aware of the cars history, if any? Anything aftermarket, electronics, theft, etc? You have some disparate DTCs. They could possibly all be explained by a voltage problem, I know you said fully charged...

The passenger door may have a bad latch assembly. The door sense can explain the pawl DTC and the window going up and down. Sometimes the switch is available on it's own, but people usually don't have the pawl DTC. The whole latch would likely address both

https://www.challengertalk.com/threads/smart-glass.714831/?post_id=9060839#post-9060839

You have some communication/CANBUS errors and a common can be the HVAC Module. There is some troubleshooting in the Chilton Online Manual, but not all the DTCs come up there

https://www.challengertalk.com/threads/chilton-repair-manual-access.666787/?post_id=8494405#post-8494405

Mopar Pin Out loookup

MOPAR Connector Pin Out Lookup

If you guys need pinouts check this site. Mopar Connection Repair Kit

www.challengertalk.com

Good luck

A Guy

 

the U0184 DTC shows up under TIPM central gateway and the Cabin Comp node also. No other trouble codes.