Royal Purple is the first thing I change to with any vehicle. Mobil 1 or RP would likely be the best choices whether Dodge replies or not.

My .02

 

Royal Purple Problem

Royal Purple is the first thing I change to with any vehicle. Mobil 1 or RP would likely be the best choices whether Dodge replies or not.

I would be careful about using Royal Purple. I previously reported that an owner of a Charger experienced engine problems because of its use.

Here is the link.

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f51/royal-purple-oil-bad-your-engine-79174/

 

Hmmm....yellow card. I think I got a couple of those with my 2011 3.6.
I'll have to dig though and take look about the 0-40. Interesting....

Been running the Mobile 1 5-30 and the Napa gold filter. No problems or engine lights.

 

I didn't get anything regarding oil weight with our 2011. I run 5w-30 also with no issues.

 

Whoa... I'm gonna give royal purple a whirl on my next change.

I've been running Mobil 1 syn the past year.. but it's a v6 so I guess I really didn't think I needed the top of the line synthetic..

 

Whoa... I'm gonna give royal purple a whirl on my next change.

I've been running Mobil 1 syn the past year.. but it's a v6 so I guess I really didn't think I needed the top of the line synthetic..

Like many here, I've read oil tests and studies until I'm blue in the face over the years.....even 'independent lab' tests....and they all vary and if it's a test put on by the manufacturer...of course, theirs is best.

Bottom line, ANY synthetic is going to be better than a dino oil, just due to cloned molecules. I think the Mobile 1 is a smokin deal for the price of the 5 quart jug at Wally World.

....and 'general rule' is smaller motors are harder on oil because they have to work harder. A screaming 4 banger is far more brutal on oil than a big V8 that lives off of it's low end torque most of the time.

OH! I dug through my glove box last night and found nothing about running 0-40. I'd be interested in seeing if it is a regional thing.

 

Another RP fan. I have been using RP since the late 90's when my dirt bike riding buddy became dealer for it in Kauai. We did a test in my sportster with his IR gun and my motor temps dropped 15 degrees using RP over normal dino oil I was running.

Have used nothing but RP in all my motorcycles since then. Good stuff.

 

5w30 is what a 3.6l takes the 0w40 is for srt vehicles I dont know why dodge slipped those in

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Listen to the guy above me...he is correct the 0-40 is for the SRT not the 3.6...

3.6 is 5-30 period use somethinbg else and have a problem and you have voided the warranty.

3.6 has very high tolerances in that engine 5-30 synthetic....:hippy:

 

so what is exactly the type of oil for our 2011 Challenger 3.6L??

5w-30 synthetic or non-synthetic??

i ask because every now and then i take it to the dealer where i got it from, and they take care of it, but when i cant make the 35 min drive to them i take it to my local walmart to do it, and this time it was time for a change of oil and apparently for some reason they had new (stupid) people and they did not know what to put on it synthetic or non-synthetic and also it was never registered on their computer that it has ever been there for a oil change when i told them i have take it to them for several times, but some how it never has?? and i checked my previous oil change records form the dealer but they dont specify what oil they use all it says its 5w-30 and one time they used 10w-30 i was not aware of that at all, is this going to give me problems or void my warranty the dealer put one time 10-30 and last one was a 5-30?
so since i couldnt find the walmart oil change paperwork i did not the did the oil change there until i know exactly what to put on my 3.6L thats when i will let them work on my baby!


anyways im just going to take it to the dealer this weekend, and make the drive as long as they have it right im ok to do the trip


any suggestions on what to use?

5w-30:

valvoline?, Castrol?, RP?, Mobile 1?, or what else which is best?

and is it synthetic or non-synthetic???

i just ask to make sure no one screws my baby up!


-it has Weapon-R CAI, straight pipe, and just got the trinity this week so i will have the tune on it also...and its running now on 87' was 89' but was prices aint going down so its on 87' and also because the trinity only has 87' or 93' tune so i got it on 87' because of that...

 

did my 1st Oil Change on my 12 challenger 3.6 at 550 miles, amazed at how dirty the oil was. Put in the new filter and valvoline syn power 5/30 per manual. Added a fumoto valve to make the change easier next time.

 

Pull that oil drain**** off right this minute....even with the lower panel. Their are numerous incedences of people hitting curbs, parking space concrete stops, speed bumps, raod hazards and thes suckers braking off or snapping the pan they the single worst product from Japan to hit the marketplace ever.

Just go buy the suction oil removal pumps nd be done with the drain**** removal..they work great...by the way your oil at 550 should have been pretty good loking!!

:bangin:

 

The Fumoto tucks up above the front cross member. If you snap it off you have huge problems other than oil loss.

 

I would have not put it on it it didnt look right. As mentioned the lowest part of the engine is still higher than the frame that is less then 12" away and 3" above.
I see nothing wrong with its construction, I'll leave it for now.

 

You can run either back and forth....the 2011 is 5-30w period. If you use the 5-20 and you have a failure the first thing Dodge does is pull the oil....test and if its the wrong viscosity your warranty is ZERO.

My Dodge dealership says your cars ready....my oil is 10-30 on sticker, they say its correct I say read manual I have page here for you to read..since I'm not driving a SRT.

Changed my oil again and then were **itty enough to fire the oil change tech. Go figure they didn't know at service front what they were doing either.

The reason is you stay with Synthetic, when you start with Synthetic; If you use standard, then switch to Synthtic your engine seals could leak on a car with some mileage.

By the way BJ's Club which blows away Costco and Sams in every category sell's both Mobil One and also carry's Shell's High Performace Synthetic same as their race cars use for 19 buck a case...it's a steal!!!! :headbang2:

 

I have a 2015 Dodge Challenger SXT, it has the 3.6 V6, I took it to my dealer and they told me that even if I use the correct oil in my car, I can't use synthetic because it will cause my engine light to turn on, is this true? I want to use a synthetic because I always heard it was better for engines but according to my dealer that is wrong. I haven't gotten my first oil change yet and I'm at about 4500 miles. My oil gauge thing says I still have about 40% oil life left. I was also told by my uncle who is a mechanic to leave the oil that the car came with in until it is REQUIRED for me to change because of the additives they add are supposed to help break the engine in

 

I was also told by my uncle who is a mechanic to leave the oil that the car came with in until it is REQUIRED for me to change because of the additives they add are supposed to help break the engine in

Some OEM's use break in oil, Dodge does not. You are safe to change to any synthetic.



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been using full synthetic Valvoline for 2.5 years, NEVER a CEL light!

 

been using Valvoline full synthetic for 2.5 years, NEVER have I had a CEL light!

 

I changed mine a few days ago at 3300 miles. I went synthetic. As long as you stay with the recommended 5W-20 oil, you should have no problem.

 

Multiple people are giving you bad information.Use the recommended oil in the owners manual.You may use conventional or synthetic.Says so right there in the owners manual.A lot of dealer techs can barely change oil let alone give sound advice.As far as waiting for the car to tell you when to change the oil.No!Get that factory oil out of there.Most Challenger owners get that crap out of there at 1000-1500 miles due to possible metal particles/debris from breaking in new engine.After that change it every 3 months or 3000 miles.Keeping good clean oil in engine is cheap insurance.

 

Wowza...the tech told you that at the Dealership? Find another dealer a.s.a.p.


Open manual.....see oil specs.....5-20w


Purchase oil, filter, then change oil 6 qrts. to the synthetic brand of your choice.


The information the dealer tech gave you is wildly incorrect on a level that garners zero comprehension.


Enjoy your car.....I change mine every 3,500-4,000k but hey I've been doing that since the sixties....dump the "new brand" oil at 6-8k and your eyes will popped out of your head. It's really filthy and full of black carbon residue......J.M.H.O.

 

I was using conventional oil since i owned the car now I've recently switched over to synthetic oil and I have 130,000 miles on my 2011 se
No problems whatsoever.

 

I think your card was a mistake... I've NEVER heard of 0w40 being used in a Pentastar engine. The first two years (2011 & 2012) the manual called for 5w30. Every year since then, it has called for 5w20. Nothing actually changed in the engine, but I guess they gained confidence in 5w20/0w20 oil after a few years.

All that said... its not going to promptly fail on 0w40. But there's a chance you may get the occasional error code from the cam phasers not reacting as fast as they do with 5w20. In fact, my wife's 2011 3.6 in a Grand Cherokee threw that code once or twice with Royal Purple 5w30 oil. Switched it to a 0w20 oil and not a hiccup since. (note: 5w20 and 0w20 are exactly the same until you get below something like -20 degrees F, that first number only comes into play at very cold temps).

 

One more comment: Please don't get sucked into the whole fear of synthetic and non-synthetic not being compatible. THEY ARE. You can switch back and forth as often as you want, it won't hurt anything. Synthetic oils resist oxidation at very high temps better than non-synthetic so you can run longer between oil changes, and they also tend to flow better at very low temps. Other than that, they both lubricate, they both carry the additives that protect the engine, they both keep the engine clean. They're both OIL, and they don't leave incompatible residues. Heck, they use the SAME anti-wear and cleaning additive compounds! Use synthetic if you are in high heat, very cold, or if you want to run longer between oil changes, or you want a little more margin for error. Otherwise a good name-brand conventional (Mobil, Pennzoil, Castrol, whatever meets the requirements of the owners' manual) will do just fine.

Hope this helps.

 

440 I respectfully disagree with the above. Synthetic tends to flow at less pressure in high tolerance motors such as the 3.6L engine. That's why the Penzoil that came in my car from the factory was actually synthetic. Verified.


As a matter of course, if you take a motor with say 70k plus miles, for instance, and your running for the life of the car synthetic then you drop in standard oil the chances for blow by and engine seals leaking or rupturing, well lest just say they are synonymous. Seen it a zillion times.

If you run Synthetic M.O. stay with it....you can go from synthetics to standard say in the first 30k of a car...and but we shy away from it after that mileage, just as a matter of course.

Specific to the Synthetic...we have a 2002 Trailblazer that we have had on Mobil One 10-30w since day one here. It has 220k miles on it...on its recent "tune-up" service the inside of the motor was clean as a whistle. If we dumped 10-30w standard motor oil I can smell the smoke already.......

 

Hi all...

Just had the first scheduled oil change on my '12 Challenger (SXT, 3.6L V-6)

Question regarding oil type: The owner's manual specifies 5W-30, either synthetic or ordinary.

Packed with my owner's manual was a yellow card called "User Guide Addendum", an official-looking Chrysler form. It says "The manufacturer recommends the use of a full-synthetic SAE 0W-40 engine oil..."

As others have stated, that addendum was not meant for your car, it was meant for a different engine than what you have. Having said that, you can certainly run the 0W-40 synthetic if you want, nothing is going to happen if you do...literally, nothing good or bad will happen. It will behave just like every other oil (that meets the engine's required specs): it will lubricate your engine's moving parts to keep them from seizing up and it will help carry away heat from the internal parts to keep them cool in stop and go traffic and such.

20W-50, 15W-40, 10W-40, it doesn't matter...don't get hung up on those numbers, they don't have nearly as much bearing on the oil's quality and compatibility as it would seem they do. No, you really only need to verify one thing when purchasing a motor oil for your car: If the API starburst on the back is at least SN, you can run it.

Having said all that, I will say that just because you can run 20W-50 without fear of hurting your engine, that does not mean you should run it. There will be some consequences, such as decreased gas mileage, unpleasant noises at startup on cold mornings, etc.

Bottom line: just keep it simple. Buy a good named brand oil that you can afford and keep it changed at least every 5K for conventional and 10K for synthetic. You can certainly have shorter OCIs than those, but you are not going to realize any quantifiable benefits from not using the oil to its fullest before discarding it.

I realize that is going to be a controversial statement there, and I'm willing to suffer the slings and arrows of making it, just so long as it helps get the word out that we aren't living the dark ages of motor oil any more. What we have available to us now is infinitely better than what it used to be. And the truth is, even your average big-box--store's house brand conventional motor oil that only cost $3 a quart is every bit as good as the "synthetics" of 20 years ago.

One benefit the synthetic oil will provide is longer OCIs, if you wish to utilize them. However, if you push your OCIs past 5K (which is the standard interval now BTW), you should run an extended life oil filter to handle the longer time it will spend in duty. Pushing a standard life filter into the 7500-10000 mile range (what synthetics will give you nowadays) is a good way to induce media failure and that ain't no good for nobody. That leaves you with unfiltered oil circulating around in your engine, which is obviously best avoided.

The dealer didn't know anything about the addendum, and after some discussion (they were really nice) I had them put in the original Mopar 5W-30.

Was this person one of the service techs or just a car salesman? If he was a salesman, I would have been really surprised if he even knew what motor oil was, much less why any car might have different specs for their engine's lubrication.

But if he were an actual service tech at the dealership there, then I would have been worried about his lack of knowledge on the subject. Given that it is his business to know, you would think that he'd keep himself up to date on the available info. But if he's just working there until he gets off probation, then he's not going to care to learn anything extra that might benefit the customer.

If it were me, I'd probably find a different dealership to take my car for recalls, maintenance, etc.

...

So I'm still wondering which is right?

The "right" oil is the one that meets the SN rating from API, and which you can afford without having to pawn anything to pay bills. If you can do those and still get the weight it says in the owner's manual, you are golden. If not, don't start panicking or anything, you'll still be okay....I promise.