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2010 R/T Classic 6M
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Discussion Starter #21
I thought the edge was too pronounced an maybe the spring might be catching on it but looks the same as

Although the one in this image (assuming it is correct) looks less pronounced then the Mahle version (or is it my eyes playing tricks on me?).
View attachment 994043 View attachment 994044
Could be, but the fel pro ones I had prior were also slightly less pronounced and they popped up as well.

And yea that I definitely don't want the scratch on the valve stem either, I'll try to measure it up and see where it ends up. If it does in fact reach it then im just gonna replace all 4 valves and maybe guides while I'm at it just in case. I just don't think they are being hit from too much lift simply cuz they aren't all banged up like I've seen on other cars. Thanks for the ideas
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I usually just start by hand and the use a 12mm socket and just pushed that down with my hands. It worked fine on the rest of them and I tried tapping the socket but it didn't make any difference. I do remember the original seals being VERY difficult coming off and that's where some of the valve stem scratches came from tho most are very high up near the keeper grooves
 

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You haven't mentioned a sleeve.
Ones I've done came with a cheap piece of a straw, but the job was to guide the seal over where the locks go - so the seal would stretch a bit and be guided over the lock 'cuts' (scratches too?).
But I did buy a gasket set(s), so maybe they assume you have it if you just buy seals?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
That's interesting never heard of that being used before but it makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I don't think it's that big of a deal, but should the seals go on dry or oil on the guide? I'm just trying to think of anything at this point before I pull the head and send it to a machine shop for new guides. There's nothing that bothers me more than seeing blue smoke.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Should these seals be able to come off by hand? After I put them on I can pull them back off with my hands. They're not loose but if I pull hard enough they do pop right off.
 

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Not by hand, in fact the guy in the vid (post 20) used special pliers to pull them off and it looked like it took some force.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Yea it definitely takes some force but it's WAY easier than I remember from the original seals. I might just sell this head and buy a new one so I can eliminate any possible issues with valves or guides.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Still stumped over this one. Replaced seals again just so I could see if they popped off while cranking the engine with the valve cover off and nothing happened. But after driving for about 5 minutes it already started smoking again. Not sure what I should do because I can't see any evidence that anything is touching the seal and it doesn't make sense that those 4 guides would just go bad at the same time I installed the cam.
Anyone know what I could expect a shop to charge to pull the head off? Don't feel like doing it myself again
 
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