Ok so im losing my mind over these valve stem seals. When I did my cam swap a few months ago my car started burning oil and found out all 4 valve stem seals popped off and where sitting on the valve stem itself(see pic). I replaced all seals and they all were nice and tight on their spot. Now only a thousand miles later and all 4 popped off again. They're on the passenger side exhaust valves. I used fel pro the first time and I think melling this time.
![994030]( "994030")
Valve stem seals popping off
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JD40
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Could be, but the fel pro ones I had prior were also slightly less pronounced and they popped up as well.I thought the edge was too pronounced an maybe the spring might be catching on it but looks the same as
MOPAR 53022090AB Valve Guide Seal for 09-23 5.7L VVT, 11-23 6.4L 392 & 15-23 6.2L HEMI
MOPAR 53022090AB Valve Guide Seal for 09-23 5.7L VVT, 11-23 6.4L 392 & 15-23 6.2L HEMIhighhorseperformance.com
Although the one in this image (assuming it is correct) looks less pronounced then the Mahle version (or is it my eyes playing tricks on me?).
View attachment 994043 View attachment 994044
And yea that I definitely don't want the scratch on the valve stem either, I'll try to measure it up and see where it ends up. If it does in fact reach it then im just gonna replace all 4 valves and maybe guides while I'm at it just in case. I just don't think they are being hit from too much lift simply cuz they aren't all banged up like I've seen on other cars. Thanks for the ideas
I usually just start by hand and the use a 12mm socket and just pushed that down with my hands. It worked fine on the rest of them and I tried tapping the socket but it didn't make any difference. I do remember the original seals being VERY difficult coming off and that's where some of the valve stem scratches came from tho most are very high up near the keeper grooves
You haven't mentioned a sleeve.
Ones I've done came with a cheap piece of a straw, but the job was to guide the seal over where the locks go - so the seal would stretch a bit and be guided over the lock 'cuts' (scratches too?).
But I did buy a gasket set(s), so maybe they assume you have it if you just buy seals?
Ones I've done came with a cheap piece of a straw, but the job was to guide the seal over where the locks go - so the seal would stretch a bit and be guided over the lock 'cuts' (scratches too?).
But I did buy a gasket set(s), so maybe they assume you have it if you just buy seals?
I don't think it's that big of a deal, but should the seals go on dry or oil on the guide? I'm just trying to think of anything at this point before I pull the head and send it to a machine shop for new guides. There's nothing that bothers me more than seeing blue smoke.
Not by hand, in fact the guy in the vid (post 20) used special pliers to pull them off and it looked like it took some force.
Still stumped over this one. Replaced seals again just so I could see if they popped off while cranking the engine with the valve cover off and nothing happened. But after driving for about 5 minutes it already started smoking again. Not sure what I should do because I can't see any evidence that anything is touching the seal and it doesn't make sense that those 4 guides would just go bad at the same time I installed the cam.
Anyone know what I could expect a shop to charge to pull the head off? Don't feel like doing it myself again
Anyone know what I could expect a shop to charge to pull the head off? Don't feel like doing it myself again
I got the same problem. Ordered enginetech seals from rockauto. After driving a day moust of them popped off. So I ordered and installed fell pro once. Now a day letter I see smoke on startups. So its neither rockauto has wrong size data or just crappy seals. I removed enginetech once easy with my fingers, originals was hard to remove. How did you fix a problem? I hate to do it again.
Haha yea it's the engine tech seals. I ended up switching to oem and no issues in 5 months. Fel pros stayed on for basically all my valves except the 4 exhaust valves for some reason, they're still on all my valves except those 4 that are running oem.
Hemi tools spring compressor
My brother bought it 2 years ago and I'm glad he did because we've used it 5 times since, when we thought that would be the only time. I think it's like $150
Snap-on has it for $148 which is the one I used to replace my springs with heads still on engine. Although the design makes it a little tricky to get the the far back cylinders by the firewall.
shop.snapon.com
Crane cam makes a tool for $100 which seems to give more access to the keepers.
autoplicity.com
Snap-on Store
Crane cam makes a tool for $100 which seems to give more access to the keepers.
Crane Cams 99476-1 Valve Spring Compressor - Chry. 5.7-6.1 Hemi V8
Crane Cams 99476-1 CRANE Valve spring compressor- Chrysler 5.7-6.1 Hemi
Hello guys, I had a #8 misfire and black plugs on #2 happening only when boosting a few times consecutively playing.
I suspected (hoped) its a seal and read posts here on them and am visiting here to share mine.
It recorded #8 because @high RPM it can get it wrong. The misfires were always logged at high revs.
Long story short Felpro told me after asking for a code on the parts card 190919 (decoded = 9/19/2019) they had a bulletin for the date having larger than spec seal mount ID. Well WTF! I guess it was not as important as the Tylenol recall.
They sent me a new set from this year. How about some pain and suffering and labor compensation eh?
I pulled the valve cover today and found the below. The car did not smoke not even boosting, did not use oil unless ran hard but even @WOT no smoke seen by my dash cam or in the lights back there at night.
One of the plugs and the #2 intake seal as found today. I'm changing them all.
I got these misfires randomly never fouling or rough running but always after a couple WOT series but not every time. Then finally I had a good play time with some competition doing several WOT blasts and the engine missed after letting off and I guess burnt it off enough in a minute or two. But it made things more urgent.
![1009892]( "1009892")
![1009893]( "1009893")
S
I suspected (hoped) its a seal and read posts here on them and am visiting here to share mine.
It recorded #8 because @high RPM it can get it wrong. The misfires were always logged at high revs.
Long story short Felpro told me after asking for a code on the parts card 190919 (decoded = 9/19/2019) they had a bulletin for the date having larger than spec seal mount ID. Well WTF! I guess it was not as important as the Tylenol recall.
They sent me a new set from this year. How about some pain and suffering and labor compensation eh?
I pulled the valve cover today and found the below. The car did not smoke not even boosting, did not use oil unless ran hard but even @WOT no smoke seen by my dash cam or in the lights back there at night.
One of the plugs and the #2 intake seal as found today. I'm changing them all.
I got these misfires randomly never fouling or rough running but always after a couple WOT series but not every time. Then finally I had a good play time with some competition doing several WOT blasts and the engine missed after letting off and I guess burnt it off enough in a minute or two. But it made things more urgent.
S
What are the odds of that. I spent in total probably 30 hours labor myself trying to figure it out before switching to oem seals.
Well, the 2nd set of Felpro corrected production date had several pop off. I could kill somebody. Happy New Year for me.
How did the OE seals go on in comparison? Did you have to tap them on? Cylinders #8 & #7 on the car don't give much room back there for movement eh?.
I always oil coat the valve stem and use a straw, and lube the seal lips with Q-Tips but now I'm thinking of cleaning the stem post mounting boss and leaving that part of the seal dry. Please share your work flow? Did the OE's go on firmer?
I had a dealership try to sell them to me for $8.00 each instead of a pack of 8, (53022090AB) one for each head. I'm gonna have to complain to FCA I guess.
Thanks
How did the OE seals go on in comparison? Did you have to tap them on? Cylinders #8 & #7 on the car don't give much room back there for movement eh?.
I always oil coat the valve stem and use a straw, and lube the seal lips with Q-Tips but now I'm thinking of cleaning the stem post mounting boss and leaving that part of the seal dry. Please share your work flow? Did the OE's go on firmer?
I had a dealership try to sell them to me for $8.00 each instead of a pack of 8, (53022090AB) one for each head. I'm gonna have to complain to FCA I guess.
Thanks
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