Hi, I don't know if this is the right place to post this, but I have recently been having some difficulties with shifting into second gear. I start out in first, then after some time I shift into second, but the lever sometimes doesn't go all the way (It feels like there's something blocking it but I am still usually able to shift into gear). I then put some gas on and let off the clutch (keep in mind I can't tell when this is happening) and the car acts as if it's in neutral. I push the clutch back in and I try to push the lever all the way into second gear and the lever vibrates violently and makes a noise similar to that of hard plastic being put in a moving fan. This really only happens in second gear but I have had it do this to me in first one time as well. I don't really know why this is happening and I bought my car with only ~6000 miles and I have ~8000 miles on it currently. I drive it almost daily but not very far. Thanks for your help.
Dog711
Do you have the Skip Shift Eliminator? It's a $20 module that plugs into your transmission and blocks the signal that tries to force you to shift from 1st to 3rd under certain RPM/Speed conditions.
I had similar issues with my 2013 Blacktop 6sp and the dealer had to re-grease the input shaft. Check K38556890. I know there's other post on the forum regarding this issue.
thanks
thanks
I have a skip shift and it works great, but you need to take your car to the dealer. Violent vibration of the shifter handle or not being fully in 2nd gear isn't normal and plugging in a skip shift eliminator won't address the issue. Sounds like you bought it used, so I agree with checking to see if a skip shift eliminator has been installed. But the eliminator prevents the blocking of 2nd and the force to 4th gear, it shouldn't cause the issues you're describing.
After they diagnose/repair it, then get the skip shift eliminator if the first to 4th shift is annoying to you.
After they diagnose/repair it, then get the skip shift eliminator if the first to 4th shift is annoying to you.
Actually the number JavierA referred to was K38556860
Star Case # K38556860. This is Chryslers internal tech bulletin network number. It was a known issue on the 2009 and some 2010 Challengers.
Case Verification; Vehicle affected is the LC Challenger equipped with a manual transmission. It may be difficult to shift in and out of gear.
Recommendation: Repair this condition by removing the transmission, cleaning the transmission input shaft splines and the clutch hub splines, re-greasing, and putting all the same parts back together. No parts need to be replaced because clutch disc wear or shaft/hub spline wear are not contributing factors.
The clutch should be removed from the flywheel to properly clean the clutch splines, because it is not possible to thoroughly clean the clutch splines otherwise. Do not use harsh spray solvents (brake clean, etc.) on the clutch discs… care must be taken to keep cleaning solvents away from the clutch friction material. Mineral spirits or similar will get the job done.
Both of the clutch hub splines and transmission input shaft splines must be carefully cleaned. When applying the grease for reassembly, the entire exposed length of the clutch hub splines (both discs) and the entire length of the input shaft should be lightly coated with the P/N 05083150AA grease, spread evenly on all splines without excess.
The flywheel does not need to be removed for this repair. New clutch pressure plate to flywheel bolts P/N 06508880AA (quantity 6) must be used.
This problem is only supposed to apply to 2009 and 2010 Challenger 6 speeds. In 2011 they changed the input shaft splines and supposedly used a new lube. Not sure this would apply to a 2015.
A Guy
Star Case # K38556860. This is Chryslers internal tech bulletin network number. It was a known issue on the 2009 and some 2010 Challengers.
Case Verification; Vehicle affected is the LC Challenger equipped with a manual transmission. It may be difficult to shift in and out of gear.
Recommendation: Repair this condition by removing the transmission, cleaning the transmission input shaft splines and the clutch hub splines, re-greasing, and putting all the same parts back together. No parts need to be replaced because clutch disc wear or shaft/hub spline wear are not contributing factors.
The clutch should be removed from the flywheel to properly clean the clutch splines, because it is not possible to thoroughly clean the clutch splines otherwise. Do not use harsh spray solvents (brake clean, etc.) on the clutch discs… care must be taken to keep cleaning solvents away from the clutch friction material. Mineral spirits or similar will get the job done.
Both of the clutch hub splines and transmission input shaft splines must be carefully cleaned. When applying the grease for reassembly, the entire exposed length of the clutch hub splines (both discs) and the entire length of the input shaft should be lightly coated with the P/N 05083150AA grease, spread evenly on all splines without excess.
The flywheel does not need to be removed for this repair. New clutch pressure plate to flywheel bolts P/N 06508880AA (quantity 6) must be used.
This problem is only supposed to apply to 2009 and 2010 Challenger 6 speeds. In 2011 they changed the input shaft splines and supposedly used a new lube. Not sure this would apply to a 2015.
A Guy
Right, don't know if any of the grease issues and star case would apply to a 2015 and your clutch warranty is long expired so be careful going to the dealer, that could be one expensive repair.
The skip shift only activates at exactly 20 mph and part throttle, at what speed are you trying to shift into 2nd?
Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
The skip shift only activates at exactly 20 mph and part throttle, at what speed are you trying to shift into 2nd?
Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
"Granny shifting, not double-clutching like you should." 
No but seriously, I have a 2011 RT w/6-Speed Tremec and have the same issue getting into 2nd gear sometimes.
My theory is that when someone doesn't know about the skip shift and try forcefully shifting into 2nd over and over and over it mucks with the transmission.
I installed the skip shift eliminator and tend to double-clutch 1 > 2 when driving at a slower rate of speeds (below 3k).
At least in my case, if you're tooling around with haste and shifting from 1 > 2 at or above 3k the shift is clean every time.
It's only at low speeds does it tend to hang and "almost" reach 2nd. YMMV
No but seriously, I have a 2011 RT w/6-Speed Tremec and have the same issue getting into 2nd gear sometimes.
My theory is that when someone doesn't know about the skip shift and try forcefully shifting into 2nd over and over and over it mucks with the transmission.
I installed the skip shift eliminator and tend to double-clutch 1 > 2 when driving at a slower rate of speeds (below 3k).
At least in my case, if you're tooling around with haste and shifting from 1 > 2 at or above 3k the shift is clean every time.
It's only at low speeds does it tend to hang and "almost" reach 2nd. YMMV
My 2015 has had the same issue getting into 2nd since new. It happens every once in a while but over time I've gotten used to it and can kind of tell when it's about to happen. I've installed the skip shift eliminator and have done the clutch delay valve removal. While these do increase the drivability and fun factor they didn't address the 2nd gear hang.
Usually in the morning when the car is cold is when I encounter the issue. Pulling the shifter from first into second the shifter nearly slots fully into second but hangs right at the end. At this point I one of two things will happen - 1. If I let the clutch out before it goes fully in gear the shifter will forcibly pop back into neutral, or 2. patiently wait about 1 second and the shifter will finally slot fully into gear.
Of course, I encourage option 2 but sometimes when I'm pulling out into a street or if I'm trying to hurry through the gears I will get the scratch and pop. All I can say is be patient and take time to learn the little intricacies of how your car shifts and behaves but if the problem is very bad or continues to bother you consider getting it serviced. Each of these transmissions have their own behaviors and quirks and, at least for me, it isn't a problem anymore.
Usually in the morning when the car is cold is when I encounter the issue. Pulling the shifter from first into second the shifter nearly slots fully into second but hangs right at the end. At this point I one of two things will happen - 1. If I let the clutch out before it goes fully in gear the shifter will forcibly pop back into neutral, or 2. patiently wait about 1 second and the shifter will finally slot fully into gear.
Of course, I encourage option 2 but sometimes when I'm pulling out into a street or if I'm trying to hurry through the gears I will get the scratch and pop. All I can say is be patient and take time to learn the little intricacies of how your car shifts and behaves but if the problem is very bad or continues to bother you consider getting it serviced. Each of these transmissions have their own behaviors and quirks and, at least for me, it isn't a problem anymore.
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