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On other cars I've frequently had it a touch over the full mark. But the first time the dealer did the 6.4L it was pretty darn close to being a half quart too high. IOW the distance above the full line was about half the distance between the add line & the full line, which usually is a full quart.

The second time I asked to use just 6.5 quarts & give me the balance of the Pennzoil bottle. The bottle did have a half quart remaining & the oil on the dipstick was right on the full line. If they would have used all the oil it would have been a half quart too high.

The manual does say the capacity is 7 quarts, but it also says do not over fill. If the difference between add & full is one quart, that means being a half quart below full is right in the middle. Therefore using 6.5 quarts puts it in the middle if you choose to go by the 7 quart spec. If you were taking a trip & stopped for gas & checked the oil & it was at the full mark would you add a half quart?
 

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On other cars I've frequently had it a touch over the full mark. But the first time the dealer did the 6.4L it was pretty darn close to being a half quart too high. IOW the distance above the full line was about half the distance between the add line & the full line, which usually is a full quart.

The second time I asked to use just 6.5 quarts & give me the balance of the Pennzoil bottle. The bottle did have a half quart remaining & the oil on the dipstick was right on the full line. If they would have used all the oil it would have been a half quart too high.

The manual does say the capacity is 7 quarts, but it also says do not over fill. If the difference between add & full is one quart, that means being a half quart below full is right in the middle. Therefore using 6.5 quarts puts it in the middle if you choose to go by the 7 quart spec. If you were taking a trip & stopped for gas & checked the oil & it was at the full mark would you add a half quart?
Red......as an old friend of mine used to say......."This is as clear as mud" ! lol You have a great point. In "gray areas" like this I always defer to a known standard. The manufacturer says their motor takes 7 quarts, so it gets 7 quarts. If there is a problem, it will show up way before the warranty ends..... and it's on them.

Dipsticks and accessories are frequently supplied by vendors. Through the years there are variances of where they etch the markings and total length.

Motors with small oil pans are really critical with the level. There is not much room so the crank can get submerged rather easily. These big Hemi's are pretty forgiving. I used to have an 87 Dodge Power Ram 4WD with a 318 and a 7 quart pan. 7 quarts would always put it over the full mark by about 3/8" of an inch or so. I ran it 23 years and it was flawless. Never had a problem or a leak. My 68' 440 was the same way with a 6 quart pan. Adding 6 quarts put it over as well. My 68' 318 was the same way with a 5 quart pan. My 392 is the same with 7 quarts. This is a trend and seems very normal with Mopars in my experience.

However....if it really bothers you.....take the Dealer to task. Ask for a different dip stick and tube. Do some measurements. Get their recommendation in writing so you are cleared.

Please keep us posted if you do.............Gene.
 

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My 2016 Jeep with Pentastar, has the cable type dipstick, with the little 'dingle' on the end. They must have got that idea from Volkswagen. I had a beetle with that type. I hope the 'dingle never comes off in the motor:oops:
My 2002 Lightning has the same thing. You'll be fine. It's 18 years old and running fine with the dongle. Don't get me wrong, the like my Challengers dipstick material better but the "wire and dongle" design has shown it's longetivity here
 

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I simply took my Dremel with a grinding stone on it and ground the "zone" just enough to roughen it up so that the oil really adhere's to it much better and is much easier to read. Also took a scribe and delineated the upper and lower limits. No issues with it now...
 

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Have never checked my dipstick during use. Fill it with 7 quarts of 0W-40 at oil change and just drive. If I see no oil on the ground I'm good.
 

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Hello, so ive had my WB Scat Pack for a while now and it has just under 1900miles - ever since i started checking the engine oil after getting gas ive grown exceedingly paranoid. The damned dipstick is so retarded i cant even.. it has a very dull mesh pattern where it says "SAFE" inside. At the bottom of the pattern there is an arrow pointing up and the letters "ADD". Ever since i started checking the oil, (5min after shutoff on level surface) its extremely hard to tell where the oil level is at accurately. Like i seriously need to squint my eyes and angle the dipstick to be able to tell anything at all.

Here is a picture the first time i checked it. Yellow arrow shows it within the SAFE area.
However, after that every time i have checked, the oil has been at the blue mark, just above the ADD arrow, and then when i tilt and angle the dipstick i can see faintly oil where i marked with the RED line. Rest of the dipstick is dry. What gives? Oil life is at 70ish %

What are your experiences owning these cars? Have you guys/gals needed to add oil before the first oil change? Note that i just drive it to work and back, occasionally cruise around and drive it a bit harder on saturdays and sundays... nothing that would call for more oil at this mileage..
I saw something on TV years ago where you can drill a small hole or a couple of holes in the dip stick to better read it....put a hole at the high and low marks....the hole(s) gets filled in with oil and its easier to read.....so I'm talking a real small hole like 3/32"...1/8" might be too big...you don't want to weaken that point where the holes are...I had a car or two in the past where there were factory holes in the dipstick .....I think one was my Pontiac 76 TransAm.....Good Luck!
 

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Mine has always stayed at the full mark between oil changes. I only have a little over 4k miles and I have changed the oil & filter three times.
 

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Mine has always stayed at the full mark between oil changes. I only have a little over 4k miles and I have changed the oil & filter three times.
Do you fill it to the full mark or do you add 7 quarts? Most people say that 7 quarts does overfill by about a half quart but some do it anyway. So far FCA has replied to my question but danced around giving me an answer. They say the capacity is 7 qts but add oil only if the level is below the ADD mark on the oil level indicator.
 

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Do you fill it to the full mark or do you add 7 quarts? Most people say that 7 quarts does overfill by about a half quart but some do it anyway. So far FCA has replied to my question but danced around giving me an answer. They say the capacity is 7 qts but add oil only if the level is below the ADD mark on the oil level indicator.
It is too bad Dodge has to make this complicated.

So far I have not changed the oil in my Hellcat. But if/when I do I'll drain the oil hot and for some time: 20 minutes which was the drain interval for my other cars. Then I'll add 7 quarts of oil for that is what the factory calls for. 7 quarts unless I get info from the factory service manual -- which I will have at that time -- or from some other official source that more or less oil is required. Also, I might have info on what the factory prefers for a drain time. But so far when I have taken my Hellcat in for oil/filter service the car is in and out of the bay in just under an hour so the drain interval is not that long.

Anyhow, after I have refilled the engine with the 7 quarts of oil and let it run a bit then sit I'll check the oil level with the dipstick and note where the level is. That's the max. mark as I know the engine has the right amount of oil in it as per the factory.

You can certainly follow what Dodge says regarding when to add oil. Not sure what's so special about about the Add mark that one should only add oil when the level is at or below this. OTOH, it is the "Add" mark, so duh.

Could be this means the level is 1 quart low and thus one doesn't have to fuss with adding just a fraction of a quart nor is there as big a risk if one wants to top up the level before it reaches the Add mark of adding too much oil.

Do not recall having to add oil to the Hellcat engine but my SOP with my other cars and the Hellcat will be no different is to when I check the oil level and if it is low enough to at least take 1/2 quart I will add oil to top the level up. I prefer to run my engines with the oil level close to if not at the max level. This helps ensure that under all operating conditions there is sufficient oil in the pan so that the oil pump should not ever suck air nor even suck in oil that has not had time to lose its air content, is still "foamy".
 

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2018 Dodge Challenger T/A Plus in Yellow Jacket w/5.7L and A8 automatic
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@Rockster

Will you also drain your oil cooler? Did you verify that the dealership has been draining the oil cooler, too?
 

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@Rockster

Will you also drain your oil cooler? Did you verify that the dealership has been draining the oil cooler, too?
Initially I will drain this. Mainly to see how much oil drains out. Whether I drain it at subsequent oil changes depends.

With a previous car the oil change procedure called for an oil collector in the oil line from the turbo -- there were two turbos -- to the engine sump -- be drained. Each oil collector drain plug had a sealing ring that had to be replaced. The rings cost some few dollars each.

When it came time to change the oil I dutifully drained these collector tanks. Got about a tablespoon or two of oil from each one.

After I talked to the techs and they told me they no longer bother to drain the collection tanks. Asked why the automaker called for this in the first place and they didn't know for sure, but offered some opinions.

I'm loathe to leave any more residual oil in the engine than I can reasonably remove but all that "work" and expense for just not even a 1/4 cup of oil? I stopped draining the oil collector tanks. The engine required over 8 quarts of oil to refill the oil tank. (Dry sump oil system.)

The same I think with the oil cooler. If a "considerable" quantity of oil drains out then I'll continue to drain it. If not so much oil drains out I will probably skip this step at subsequent oil changes.

I have the oil changed every 5K miles and if I change it myself I'll change the oil every 5K miles not the 6K miles the factory calls for so it is not like the oil is that horrible. That the engine requires 7 quarts to refill means that any oil that remains in the engine the quantity pales in comparison to how much fresh oil gets added back into the engine.

As for whether the tech at the dealer drains this I have really have no idea. I have not been present to see this done.

The first oil change I asked to go back and take some pics of the car when it was on the lift and I believe at this time the tech was draining the oil cooler. Or was preparing to. I looked at the pics and there were two oil catchers one under the car set off to one side of the engine, the other a smaller one to one side of the car. But really whether this was for the oil cooler drain step I don't know.

At any rate since that first change and there have been have been 5 oil changes I do not know for sure if the oil cooler has been drained.
 

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The oil has a tendency to run down the dipstick sometimes if you don't hold it flat, but I get what you mean. Sometimes it's like the reading is different each time you pull it out. All you can do is wipe it really good and try again, sometimes I turn the stick around 180 degrees and see what it says on the other side, and compare the 2 sides. If you can get a consistent flat area enough times, that's where it is.
You know what I did , I carved for scratched a line on the bottom and top of safe zone, no doubts now. just don't accidentally carve it too much so you don't break it putting it in.
 

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You know what I did , I carved for scratched a line on the bottom and top of safe zone, no doubts now. just don't accidentally carve it too much so you don't break it putting it in.
That's what I did, I used a little rotary tool I have for models and such. It probably didn't go any deeper than a 64th of an inch, and that was plenty to be able to see the levels much better.
 

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On cats, if you're going with a Fumoto drain on the oil cooler you'll have to pull the clip and slip the pipe out to get the valve in, you won't believe how much trapped oil is in that pipe you must adjust for on the refill
 

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If the car is reasonably level, the engine not super cold, and the drain interval of reasonable length the oil can't defy gravity. It drains out.


(With other cars the factory clearly stated the oil drain conditions: Car level. Engine up to some minimum temperature. A drain interval of at least 20 minutes but with some engines an hour drain interval was called for. Then a specific amount of oil was to be added back in the engine. With cars with an electronic oil level sensor this allowed the tech to confirm the sensor reported the correct amount of oil. It was how the sensor's proper operation was verified.)


I hope if anyone follows your procedure at least he check the oil level again shortly after refilling the engine and if it low -- which almost certainly it will be -- to add sufficient oil to bring the level up to "full".
I like that you brought up the drain internval. I don't think most people give that much thought. I will usually let mine drian close to an hour. It takes time for the oil to completely drain from the top side of the engine. I have to use 8 quarts to top it off. That tells me I have as much of the old dirty oil as I can possibly get out of there.
 

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I like that you brought up the drain internval. I don't think most people give that much thought. I will usually let mine drian close to an hour. It takes time for the oil to completely drain from the top side of the engine. I have to use 8 quarts to top it off. That tells me I have as much of the old dirty oil as I can possibly get out of there.
Have not yet observed the oil drain of my Hellcat but with other cars as per the factory with engine up to some minimum temperature (IIRC 170F or hotter) while the factory called for a 20 minute drain the oil stream from the oil sump drain hole had essentially stopped flowing any oil before 20 minutes was up. Just a drip....drip....drip....with the intervals getting longer and longer between drips. I'm not waiting an hour to get another cup (if that much) of oil out of an engine that holds around 9 quarts of oil.

Newer DFI engines the factory upped the drain interval to one hour. I never had a chance to observe these engines having their oil drained.

Up to you how long you want to let the engine oil drain. All I can offer is I urge you to be sure the engine is up to temperature so the oil drains quickly and is not stratified with the nastiest stuff laying on the "bottom" of the engine where it could remain to contaminate the fresh oil.
 

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Unless the engine has exhibited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about ten minutes before checking the oil level. Checking the engine oil level on a cold engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level. The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD and SAFE marks on the engine oil level indicator.

  1. Position the vehicle on the level surface.
  2. With the engine off, allow approximately five minutes for the oil to settle to the bottom of the crankcase and then remove the engine oil level indicator.
  3. Wipe the oil level indicator clean.
  4. Install the oil level indicator and verify it is seated in the tube.
  5. Remove the oil level indicator, with the handle held above the tip, observe the oil level reading.
  6. Add oil only if the level is below the ADD mark on the oil level indicator.
 
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