Displacement and compression? That's all I've got. Lol

 

higher lift cam and longer duration
shorty headers with 3" exhaust system
short / long runner active intake
forged crankshaft
stronger connecting rods
oil cooling jets (cools underside of pistons)
water-to-oil cooler
higher flow heads
higher compression ratio

 

Also needs pics of your new 2020

 

Your best bet is to swap the cam, intake and exhaust from the 6.4 onto your 5.7. You will be down on displacement, compression and cylinder head airflow, but you should be reasonably close.

You could stroke it to make up for the lack of displacement, but I think the above would be more than enough.

 

You can view my Showcase here to see how I did it. My 2014 Shaker makes a tad more horse power than a Hellcat.

 

Do NOT sell your car short, there are thousands who would give anything to have what you just bought. The big difference is you are smart enough to know when to stop, many owners are choking on their notes and credit card debt buying mods. Follow stories here long enough and you see the one with the biggest bragging story and putting lots of performance mods suddenly says, things are suddenly different personally and it goes up for sale just after they get done.
Congrats on your purchase, it’s a great car.

 

I agree, Enjoy your R/T, it's a fun car.

DeWFPo

 

After rereading the original post, ignore my above comment. If you want to out perform the 6.4, go straight to boost. If you want to push that, do a forged shortblock and ported heads too so you can run even more boost.

I focused on competing with the 6.4, not pushing past it. I think a 6.4 intake, aftermarket cam and long tube headers will get you even with or maybe a little past a 6.4, but it sounds like that wouldn’t be enough.

In regards to what is different between the two, there are many. The 6.4 and 5.7 are similar in most respects, some materials for block and heads and such, but the 6.4 has a bigger bore so it can use bigger valves in the heads, plus the cam has more lift and duration, which all work out to much more power producing airflow. Couple that with a touch more compression, more stroke and better intake and exhaust and you have a motor built for more power. The 6.4 was designed for making power, the 5.7 was designed to work in multiple applications. Nothing against the 5.7, I loved mine. I just think the motor is down 75 hp from where it could be if Dodge made it a performance motor instead of an “all around” motor.

 

Spend your money going to an advanced driving school. You will enjoy learning how to drive your already very capable car far more than simply bolting stuff on for a few more HP. When I was a Suzuki dealer we used to sell GSXR's to guys who came back in a month claiming their bike wasn't fast enough. One lap on a track with a capable rider proved to them that they weren't fast enough, lol.

 

First and most important question is....................What's your budget?

 

(Disclaimer: below is just my opinion. Agree or disagree at your leisure)

Sounds like you have buyers remorse. You shouldn't. Challenger R/T w/ 5.7L HEMI is an awesome car as is.

My fist bit of advise is drive it for a while, you might find it has plenty of power. Even if you can make it faster than a Scat Pack there will ALWAYS be faster cars. After you beat a SP you will want to be faster than a HC.

If you didn't have the $$$ to buy a SP (Scat Pack), the harsh reality is, you probably won't have the money to make your car as fast as a SP. The cheapest way to add power is Super Charger (or NOS). If your not racing it's probably not worth the time and money, at a certain power level you need to start beefing up the rear end also, so we're not just talking engine mods. If you're not racing and just doing it for the fun and thrill, that is totally okay in my book.

If you do want to mod, don't let any one dissuade you. Mod away. I think modding is fun, I get swept up in it myself. But unless your a mechanic or can DIY, it's not cheap to mod a MOPAR.

When you do mod, I recommend you do not using the SP as a bench mark. Don't try to match the spec of the 6.4L. Just try to squeeze as much power as your wallet will allow from the 5.7. There are some Damn fast moded RTs out there. My recommendation is SC it if your on a budget. However, I totally get wanting a N/A car. I prefer it myself over FI. (I've owned, and own, SC and TC cars, I much prefer N/A).

Your first mod (IMO) should be better tires (sometimes meaning new wheels also). ALL the HEMI cars suffer from lack of traction at launch. I upgraded wheels and put 315s on the back (I have a SP BTW). Night at day difference. I was running 4.8 second 0-60 with stock wheels. Now I average 4.3sec with a 4.2 my best. Might not seam like much on paper But it's a few car thength @ 60mph. I did have to spend upwards of $3k to do it tough. (New wheels needed for the wider rear tires).

Not the answer you were looking for maybe but some things to think about.

Oh, and all the neighsayers that insist the 6.4L and 5.7L engines don't take bolt-ons well,... Well, they have been proven wrong. The key is needing a tune to use the mods to their full potential.

 

I'm going to say it. You bought the wrong car. It's going to take thousands to beat a 6.4 and you will completely void your warranty.

Another point is, all these mods won't add any value to your car and will actually hurt your resale.

You bought a 5.7 because that's all you could afford so live with it and enjoy it as is. You will be over the price of a base Scat Pack before you mod your car to beat one.

 

I'm going to say it. You bought the wrong car. It's going to take thousands to beat a 6.4 and you will completely void your warranty.

Another point is, all these mods won't add any value to your car and will actually hurt your resale.

You bought a 5.7 because that's all you could afford so live with it and enjoy it as is. You will be over the price of a base Scat Pack before you mod your car to beat one.

I kind of have to agree with this. Really hard to upgrade an R/T for the difference in cost between that and an SP. And when you factor in the resale value angle, makes less sense.

At the same time, if you don’t plan to sell it ever, mod’s only hurt you if you worry about the warranty or if they hurt the driveability.

I do think if you can do your own work, things like a 6.4 cam, intake and exhaust can wake the car up and cost much less than a trade up to an SP. but it will only get you close to SP performance and still requires a fair amount of money if you want the SP brakes, wheels, seats and such. If you buy right like an STP equipped R/T, you get most of the SP suspension, and later model cars could even be bought with the 4 piston Brembos, making them decent fodder for a lower cost build.

My plan had been to do the full 6.4 parts swap onto my 5.7 and run a complete BR9 brake upgrade. I had decided I wasn’t going to sell my car and didn’t care if it was as fast as an SP because I liked it enough that it didn’t matter. But life has a way of changing your mind on things and with some uncertainty at work and a high interest in used Challengers, it made sense to reduce debt and make sure I was stable if things went south. Much better to sell now and wish I hadn’t than to wish I had and be scrambling in November to figure out how to make ends meet.

 

There is no universal right or wrong car. Everyone has their own priorities and end goals. I'd rather have a boosted stroked scat shaker over a hellcat. Eventually I might, because I like modding and like the shaker. If not, I'm mighty happy with it as it sits. It's not always about the absolute most power possible for the least money, or what makes the most sense, or retaining the resale value. Why would I buy this car and have my main concern be how much I can sell it for five years down the road? It wasn't a smart investment out of the gate, so why would I try and compensate that by keeping it pristine for the next guy? The v6 would be the only ever "smart" financial decision if that's what your truly worried about. Doesn't make any sense. Would this combo have more power than a hellcat? Maybe. Will it be less reliable? Yes. It's not a dd now that I rely on for income, so certainly won't by the time I potentially start modding.

Moral of the story is everyone likes to put their own situations into others purchasing decisions, then claim they bought the wrong one. He made a calculated decision; buy what he can afford now, mod later. OR, save for a couple more years and not have a challenger to drive. Pick one and live with it 🤷‍♂️.

 

Why would I buy this car and have my main concern be how much I can sell it for five years down the road? It wasn't a smart investment out of the gate, so why would I try and compensate that by keeping it pristine for the next guy? The v6 would be the only ever "smart" financial decision if that's what your truly worried about. Doesn't make any sense.

I don’t disagree, but I will say that it was nice in my case to be able to sell my car for only a little less than I bought it for even with it being 3 years older and with 25k+ more miles. And I got way more than I expected for it. Granted, it’s an odd time which factored into me even considering it.

And I didn’t keep it nice for the next guy, did it for me and I didn’t buy it with plans to maximize the resale but I’m glad I got what I did for it.

So while I think it is a mistake to focus too much on resale value, it can be an important point, like for someone that bought an R/T and wants to trade up to an SP down the road.

 

I've read it's safer/easier to boost a stock 5.7 than a stock 6.4. That the top piston ring on the 6.4 is very close to the top of the piston & too must boost will break the upper ring land/ top edge of the piston.

 

Here’s a tip:
SPP 66050 Camber kit (one box per side.

Camber mod. Look at your rear tires from behind the car. The rear tires may lean in at the top (-3 camber on mine). This kit put my camber at 0( rear tires standing straight up) ultimately meaning 100% tread pattern contact.

Some will argue that it takes away from the handling in the curves, but I haven’t noticed it.

What I do know is it helped my wet daily drive ability and tread wear. Do the research and make your own decisions based on that.

 

Here’s a tip:
SPP 66050 Camber kit (one box per side.

Camber mod. Look at your rear tires from behind the car. The rear tires may lean in at the top (-3 camber on mine). This kit put my camber at 0( rear tires standing straight up) ultimately meaning 100% tread pattern contact.

Some will argue that it takes away from the handling in the curves, but I haven’t noticed it.

What I do know is it helped my wet daily drive ability and tread wear. Do the research and make your own decisions based on that.

What did you use to press out the stock bushings?

 

Aluminum heads, a fairly mild cam (dont know the actual specs) and I believe a 9:1 CR. If you want to take some 392's to Gapplebee's, your best bet is to slap on an Edelbrock E-Force supercharger. The 5.7's pistons can take boost more safely than the 392's because of the ring placement and it's a lot more cost-effective than going the NA route. If you went NA you'd need a stroker build and an aggressive cam, plus headers, to wail on 392's.

So, my recommendation is that you get a Hellcat airbox, some SRT shorty headers off a 392, and the Edelbrock (or maybe even a Magnuson) supercharger kit, and a really solid 93 octane tune. Plus some wider rims and tires. And if you really want to splurge, a lot of guys are having success with swapping in 6.2 Hellcat cams into their supercharged 5.7's. Delete your MDS hardware and replace the lifters with Johnson lifters or Hellcat lifters if you're going to swap the cam. Wouldn't hurt to throw on some Stankhe tie bars and collars either, for valvetrain stability at high RPM.

 

I agree with the others. Why did you buy a 5.7 of you want it to run like a 6.4? Oh yeah, you're 19.

So enjoy the car you bought and aside from cosmetic mods, leave it alone and save your money.

In two years, move up to a Scat Pack or whatever you are interested in by then.

Throwing mods and money at a brand new 5.7 and putting your warranty and resale value at risk would be the worst possible move you could make.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk